Why Your Builder Gel Keeps Lifting (Even When Your Prep Looks Perfect)
If you’ve ever thought, “My prep is perfect, so WHY is this lifting?” you’re not alone.
You push and remove cuticle, buff away surface shine, remove every speck of dust, dehydrate, prime, base, build, check from every angle, and finish flawlessly.
And then a week later… lifting.
Like, WTF? How does that even happen when your prep was textbook perfect?
Lifting Isn’t Always a Prep Problem
The biggest misconception about gel lifting is that it’s always caused by poor prep.
And yes, sometimes it is. Old bits, incomplete cuticle removal, or a nail plate that wasn’t properly cleansed can absolutely lead to lifting. But prep is also the easiest thing to blame. It’s the first place most nail techs look, even experienced ones who know their prep is solid. I still catch myself doing it after all these years.
When lifting keeps happening despite good prep, it’s time to look at the bigger picture.
The Most Common Reasons Gel Lifts
Product Compatibility Matters More Than You Think
Every manufacturer tests their system to ensure all products work together as intended. When systems are mixed, troubleshooting becomes significantly harder.
Even small differences in formulas can affect adhesion, flexibility, and curing, which often leads to lifting that feels random and frustrating.
Base Gel Choice Can Make or Break Retention
Not all base gels behave the same, and “any base gel will do” is simply not true.
Some base gels, especially Rubber Base and BIAB-style products, do not work well with acid-based primers. In some cases, this combination can actually cause lifting or make soft gel products extremely difficult to soak off.
Using a base gel designed for the system you’re working in is important. Naturally hard nails can tolerate a more rigid base, while thin or flexible nails need a base with more flex so it can move with the natural nail instead of fighting it.
Your Lamp Might Be the Problem
This is where things get uncomfortable.
Unbranded lamps that look identical to branded ones are everywhere, but what matters isn’t the outside, it’s what’s happening inside. Manufacturers invest heavily in testing how their products cure in their lamps.
This is why many brands specify cure times “with our lamp” or note that cure times depend on lamp strength. It’s not marketing fluff, it’s reality.
Allergies and chronic lifting have become far more common in the last several years, even among experienced techs. While repeated exposure plays a role, under-curing caused by inadequate lamps is a major contributor.
If you’re using a quality lamp backed by a manufacturer, following cure times, and working clean, you’re in a much safer place. Cheap lamps and questionable products always come at a cost, and that cost often shows up as lifting or sensitivity.
Nail Condition Plays a Huge Role
Weak nails can be genetic, health-related, or simply the nails a client was blessed with. Some factors, like clammy hands, are difficult to change.
Damaged nails, however, are often created. Over-filing, aggressive prep, ripping off product, and improper removal all compromise the natural nail’s ability to hold product.
Prep tools matter. A 100-grit sanding band, even at low speed, is often too aggressive for natural nail prep. Excess pressure with a finer grit can be just as damaging. RPM, pressure, angle, and number of passes all matter, especially on the natural nail.
The same applies to hand files. We are not trying to remove nail plate, only surface shine. Overzealous filing thins the nail and creates long-term adhesion issues.
Chompy clients also need education. Chronic chewing and picking thins the nail over time, and eventually there may not be enough healthy nail left to support product at all.
What Most Nail Techs Get Wrong
One of the most common contributors to lifting isn’t the base gel or builder gel at all. It’s using worn-out bits for far too long.
Bits feel expensive until you calculate what it costs to squeeze in lifting repairs instead of booking a paying fill or full set. Dull tools slow you down, reduce efficiency, and cost you money. Time is money, and dead bits are never a savings.
What Actually Fixes Lifting Issues
Technique adjustments
Flooding the cuticle is a big one. Using a liner brush to create a clean boundary at the cuticle and sidewalls can make a huge difference. Yes, it’s an extra step, but it helps prevent overexposure and flooding. Remember, base gel should be a thin, scrubbed-in layer, not a building product.
Product choices
Are you using an acid primer under a soft gel that prefers acid-free? Is your base too rigid for a thin, flexible nail? Is your builder too strong for the natural nail underneath? Sometimes more flex is the solution, not more strength.
When to stop blaming the product
When your prep is solid and your products are appropriate for the nail, it’s time to look elsewhere. Structure, length, lifestyle, occupational exposure, and even skincare products can all contribute to premature lifting.
When Lifting Is a Skill Issue, Not a Product Issue
There is no such thing as a fail-proof gel system.
When I started over 20 years ago, it was common to say you weren’t a professional nail tech until you’d completed 100 full sets and 100 fills. Mastery takes time. Chasing the “perfect” product won’t fix technique issues.
Repetition builds muscle memory. If the steps aren’t being done correctly, a new product won’t save you. Give yourself the time and consistency to grow into your skills.
Education doesn’t always have to be paid, but it does need to be intentional. Follow professionals with experience, not fear-based accounts or ones that are pushing sketchy products. And yes, your workspace and tools matter. They reflect your professionalism more than you think. If the workspace they are showing on camera is a disaster, keep scrolling.
Need Help Troubleshooting?
If lifting is a constant issue, working with compatible systems and continuing education makes all the difference. Troubleshooting is where confidence is built.
If you still have questions or want help figuring out what’s going on, email customerservice@thepinkchair.ca.
